INTERACTION BETWEEN BREAKING/BROKEN WAVES AND INFRAGRAVITY-SCALE PHENOMENA TO CONTROL SEDIMENT SUSPENSION TRANSPORT IN THE SURF ZONE
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dc.contributor.author | Smith G.G. | |
dc.contributor.author | Mocke G.P. | |
dc.date.accessioned | 2021-04-19T23:58:30Z | |
dc.date.available | 2021-04-19T23:58:30Z | |
dc.date.issued | 2002 | |
dc.identifier | https://www.elibrary.ru/item.asp?id=1103940 | |
dc.identifier.citation | Marine Geology, 2002, 187, 3-4, 329-345 | |
dc.identifier.issn | 0025-3227 | |
dc.identifier.uri | https://repository.geologyscience.ru/handle/123456789/28107 | |
dc.description.abstract | Time series of near-bed sediment, water-level and velocity were measured in the field and laboratory and analysed to investigate (a) the role of breaking/broken waves, (b) the predominance of infragravity-scale transport processes in the surf zone, and (c) the influence of infragravity processes in creating the right conditions for suspension by breaking/broken waves. Instantaneous suspended sediment concentrations were measured using optical backscatter sensors, which were found to be sensitive to sediment size, cohesive sediment in suspension and bubbles. A simple numerical filter was applied to remove the erroneous bubble signal. Suspension was found to be correlated with wave breaker bores and an associated increase in high-frequency velocities, the latter deemed to be caused by surface-generated turbulence. Infragravity-scale sediment transport flux was found to be more significant than incident-scale flux in the transition and inner surf zones. Sediment suspension was further found to be related to the onset of lower water-levels associated with infragravity wave action, which corresponded with a predominance of breaking/broken waves. These breaking/broken waves (which are induced by the low water-level) are deemed to be the cause of this suspension. | |
dc.subject | WAVE BREAKER TURBULENCE | |
dc.subject | SURF ZONE | |
dc.subject | NEARSHORE PROCESSES | |
dc.subject | SEDIMENT SUSPENSION | |
dc.subject | OPTICAL BACKSCATTER SENSOR | |
dc.subject | SEDIMENT TRANSPORT | |
dc.title | INTERACTION BETWEEN BREAKING/BROKEN WAVES AND INFRAGRAVITY-SCALE PHENOMENA TO CONTROL SEDIMENT SUSPENSION TRANSPORT IN THE SURF ZONE | |
dc.type | Статья |
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