RUNUP OF NONLINEARLY DEFORMED WAVES ON A COAST

Abstract

The problem of runup of long nonbreaking waves on a plane slope is well developed from the mathematical point of view within the framework of nonlinear theory of shallow water, which allows for an analytical solution using the Carrier–Greenspan transform. Various examples of incident waves are considered in the literature. We also cite the latest publications. However, in all the papers cited, the incident wave was symmetric or antisymmetric with equal steepness of the leading and trailing slopes. As a result, the formulas for the runup height can be parameterized.